Sri Lanka: Adam's Peak

The three jolly companions go separate ways, with me advancing towards Adam's peak. With its 2243 meters, Adam's peak is the fourth highest mountain of Sri Lanka, but the most famous one. According to tradition, the rock formation at the top is the footprint of Adam or Buddha. During the season of dec-may, many pilgrims make the ascend which is lighted by torches. It's a very busy affair, with queues on the 5200 steps and many small shops selling tea and religious souvenirs. But now it's low season, so most shops will be closed and it will be not too crowded. It takes me 3 long bus rides to get there. During the last one, I'm the prize for a tug of war between 3 different guesthouses. Most of the rooms are empty and they all want my sweet money. In the end, I settle for White House Hostel.

I go exploring in preparation of the real climb tomorrow. There are some very nice waterfalls in the area and some not so nice leeches! Near a river I feel a slight movement on my leg, and when I look down my shoes are covered with about 20 of them. 2 have reached my tasty leg and require hard pulling to remove. It's a small bite but because of the anti-coagulant they inject your blood keeps flowing. There are many stories about them. Some presumed repellents are salt, tobacco and even gunpowder. Some people recommend fire to remove them, but then they can vomit in the wound causing an infection. This is my first encounter with these creatures and they are much more agile than I thought. Video here.

In the evening I spoil the other guests their appetite with stories of leeches. Jeff, from Australia, beats my story with his tale of vomiting in his respirator in a shark cage. There is also a big discussion what is the best time to make the ascend to Adam's peak. The French go for the traditional 2.00, the Australian couple will leave at 5.00 and I decide to leave after breakfast at 8.00 because it will be very cloudy. This turns out to be the best choice: the sunrise is blocked by clouds, the path is slippery when raining and there are no torches. Leaving at 8 gives me a dry ascend, I can look out for leeches and take pictures of the pretty surroundings. Everything is closed but it's still a very nice climb, with a lot of statues, monastery and shacks. I cross the Australian couple, they petted a stray dog last evening and it followed/guided them all the way to the top! A bit later I see another dog descending with her dead pup in its jaws... very sinister. The top is quite disappointing, the temple is closed and clouds block the view.

The descend goes faster but is harder on the legs. Total time: 2,5 + 2 = 4,5 hours. In the hostel, it's a relaxing evening with more Arrack from the owner! Off course, the next day there are no clouds at all. But I don't want to make the ascent again so leave for Galle. I try to get a taxi but it's taken by a couple for their honeymoon. So I start a 8 hour bus journey, and see Adam's peak slowly disappear in the distance.